Budapest: Hey, At Least They're Not Totally Naked

Do you have qualms about jumping into an unchlorinated pool full of strangers? Do you become squeamish at the sight of elderly men in Speedos?

What's that? You don't? Well then, head on down to the Hungarian bathhouse!

I sure did. I spent the afternoon at the Szchenyi (no idea how to pronounce it) baths, the largest and most popular bathhouse among many in Budapest. The city sits right on top of a number of thermal springs, which the Ottomans took full advantage of to engender this cultural habit.

The experience was gross, fun, awkward, and relaxing all at the same time. As I mentioned, the pools are not chlorinated. Supposedly, the water is not recycled like it is at the one in your neighborhood, but rather, constantly drained and replaced with fresh, mineral-rich water from the springs. (Nonetheless, posted signs constantly remind guests to shower with soap before getting into a pool or sauna . . . Honor system?) At any rate, it's probably safe to say that Szchenyi would not have remained in business so long if people got diseases there. (I'll keep you updated.)

The huge complex features three outdoor pools, several indoor pools at varying temperatures, steam rooms, a fitness center, and probably some other stuff, but the layout of the building was so confusing that that's all I saw. There were indeed a good number of old-timers flaunting their goods, but Szchenyi, along with being the most popular bathhouse, is also the most clothed. Apparently Budapest offers other, more . . . um . . .  "traditional" set-ups as well.

In addition to soaking up the minerals with dozens of my closest international friends, I decided to indulge in a Thai massage while I was there. Thai massage is the one where they lull you into a deep state of relaxation by rubbing you down with oil, then have you sit up and proceed to punch you like they're tenderizing a piece of meat.

But yes, when all is said and done, the bathhouse is definitely a worthwhile use one's time in Budapest. It's deeply cultural, and at the same time, great for what ails the tired tourist.